Sunday, September 18, 2011

Moncks Corner to well...Monks!

The thing that strikes many visitors to Vientiane, besides the beauty and solitude of the place, is the incredible number of Buddhist monks walking around. Dressed in those trademark saffron robes, you'll easily spot them walking in pairs, usually with an umbrella in hand to ward off either sunrays or raindrops. In the early morning hours, when they make their daily alms rounds through town, it seems as if a wave of orange is flowing down the streets.




Unlike their shy Thai colleagues, Lao monks are very friendly and approachable. Pay a visit to any temple in town and it's highly likely that a polite young monk - or group of them - will initiate a conversation with you. Most of these curious, conservational monks are of the novice variety, that is, they are usually teenagers still in school and not yet full-fledged men of the cloth.



Many of the novice monks come from poor villages throughout Laos to live and study at one of the many temples scattered around Vientiane. Obviously, being Buddhist monks, they are focused on learning about the teachings of Buddha, but novices also study a variety of academic subjects and languages such as Pali, French and English. Many of them can also speak Thai, a language that is quite similar to their native Lao. Those monks that want to pursue their education at a university must relocate to the capital of Vientiane and do so at one of the larger temples located here.





During the annual water festival in April that is held to celebrate the Buddhist New Year (called 'Pii Mai Lao'), many of the young monks get caught up in the spirit of the holiday and playfully sprinkle water on the backs of visiting tourists. They might also insist on tying a string, called a 'baci,' around your wrist while they chant a blessing or two. Whether in Vientiane or a small village, it is also common practice during the festival for monks to build giant sand castles, mini-stupas actually, on the grounds of each temple.





Townsfolk make reverential processions to their local temple and 'bathe' the Buddha images by pouring a cup of water over them or by brushing them gently with scented water and flower petals. Like in neighboring Thailand, the somber religious practices eventually leads to a bit of manic water throwing in the streets. But don't expect to see any of the monks joining the fray. No, that wouldn't be proper. Instead, you'll notice them curiously watching from a safe distance with bemused smiles on their faces.





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